Well into its fourth decade, this mature red expresses ripe cherry, strawberry and currant flavors that are beginning to fade into tobacco, spice, woodsy and mineral elements. Light on its feet and supple, ending with hints of orange peel and rose hip tea. Harmonious and elegant. Drink now through 2033. — BS

1983 was the year of the retirement of Bjorn Borg after winning Wimbledon five times; and the general election in the UK confirmed the majority of the conservatives of Margaret Thatcher. In this year in Montalcino, Franco Biondi-Santi changed his old oak vessels, producing a classical gem of modern oenology. Today, the wine is refilled and certified to be released in 2021. The vintage was classic, more cool than generous. The crystalline ruby-garnet colour is resonating out of the glass with rhubarb candy, fresh violet, juniper berry and potpourri. The attack is still firm and zesty, with a delicately sour strawberry flavour and fierce chalky tannins, thick on the finish. Balanced in an austere way, it's like driving a classic car: it needs time, expertise and passion!

This precious bottle is part of Biondi-Santi's late-release program for collectors (I tasted bottle number 10,723). The 1983 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is showing beautifully on its aging timeline, although this bottle is slightly more evolved since I last tasted this vintage in 2019 before the pandemic. With slow and measured determination, the bouquet embraces dried fig, cured bresaola, burnt caramel, wet campfire, dried oregano and a familiar aroma that reminds me of the Florence leather market. However, there is a lot of life and vertical lift in this Riserva, thanks in great part to the beautiful freshness that keeps the tannins alive and adds a pop of pretty acidity to the close. The wine shows its age with pride and grace, and the final results are quite spectacular. In fact, I'm opening the drinking window up by an additional five years thanks to the latitude and depth shown here.- ML