Vallana's 2018 Boca is an old-school, super-classic wine. Firm tannins wrap around a core of macerated dark cherry, cinnamon, licorice, dried herbs and menthol. The 2018 needs a good decant. Readers will find a sturdy...

A fine and pretty Barolo with plenty of strawberry and mushroom character. White truffle, too. It’s medium-to full-bodied and creamy with medium, round tannins. Delicious now and will improve nicely.

The 2018 Montefalco Sagrantino Pagliaro is coy in the glass, slowly awakening with a mentholated blend of crushed blackberries, sage and flowery underbrush. It flows across the palate with ease, silky and round with...