Stunning nose of licorice and ripe (but not overripe) plum. Very elegant and silky, this has so much mineral intensity and such fine tannins. The freshness at the finish could wake the dead! Hard to imagine how a wine could be more focused than this. From 80 and 100 year old vines. Drink or hold.

The 2021 Moulin-à-Vent Tres Vieille Vigne Les Caves comes from vines over 80-years old. It has an almost surly, backward bouquet that despite encouragement is not coming out to play, with hints of pressed iris flower reluctantly emerging. The palate is worth investigating: lovely balance, fine acidity, assiduous use of oak and a vibrant finish. Cellar this for 3-4 years to allow the aromatics to develop and you should have a wonderful Moulin-a-Vent. - By Neal Martin on March 2023