Clarendon Hills' flagship Syrah is the 800-case cuvee of 2004 Syrah Astralis Vineyard. One of Australia's most prodigious offerings Astralis is a 20-30-year wine (some of the early vintages such as 1996 are still babies in their evolutionary progression). Produced from 75-year-old Syrah vines it coats the mouth with a viscous texture but never comes across as heavy or over the top. An opaque purple color is followed by an extraordinary nose of graphite roasted meat new saddle leather truffles violets and blackberries. Full-bodied with superb purity great definition and a refreshing zesty acidity that buttresses its enormous weight and richness it is a tour de force in winemaking from Roman Bratasiuk. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2030+ Importer: Commonwealth Wine & Spirits Inc. Mansfield MA; tel. (508) 328-6764

The flagship of the Clarendon Hills line, this comes from a patch of 80-year-old vines that winemaker Bratasiuk claims routinely provides his best fruit. The 2004 is a stunner, yielding up scents of flowers and spice, framed by hints of vanillin oak. It's dense and amply textured in the mouth, packed with wonderfully expressive blackberry and blueberry fruit, then shows layers of rich tannins on the finish that leave no doubt this needs time in the cellar to show its best. This is a tour de force of Australian winemaking that should be consumed 2010–2025. JOE CZERWINSKI

Deep dense and brooding. A smoky thick Shiraz that feels open and welcoming as the finish expands and persists. Cherry chocolate and espresso notes mingle harmoniously and hint at loamy earth as the finish sails on and on. Best from 2010 through 2020. 500 cases imported. -HS

Good yields and a more moderate vintage. This has aged well and carries a meaty and earthy edge, as well as dried mushroom, forest wood and leaves. Some cocoa and dark cherry, too. The palate has a super plush feel with fleshy, ripe blackberry fruit framed in spicy oak. Smooth, open finish. Drink or hold.