The 2007 Brunello di Montalcino saturates the palate with imposing layers of fruit. Dark red fruit, flowers, licorice and tobacco come to life as this intense Brunello opens up in the glass. The 2007 boasts fabulous richness and a huge, explosive finish. It is one of the most exciting, viscerally thrilling wines of the year, yet maintains plenty of vintage 2007 sexiness and allure. Readers should do whatever they can to taste the 2007. There are two lots of 2007 Brunello. I tasted the Lotto Leccio, which spent 36 months in cask. There is a second lot, Lotto Leccio Uno that spent 48 months in cask, which I did not taste. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2032.

Marino Colleoni is the most exciting new producer emerging in Montalcino today. A maniacal approach to farming based on sustainable practices has led Colleoni to focus on restoring a healthy, vibrant ecosystem in his vineyards in the Montosoli zone. The wines are made with indigenous yeasts and aged in cask. Colleoni releases 8,000-9,000 bottles in total, of which 3,000 are Brunello and 2,500 are Rosso from Brunello-designated vineyards. I tasted the Colleoni wines next to some of Montalcino’s long established benchmarks and they were tremendous. These big, powerful Brunelli merit serious attention. ––AG, Wine Advocate Rated 95